Narrator: IN THE RUGGED WILDERNESS OF SOUTHEAST ALASKA,
THERE ARE ISLANDS PATROLLED BY ENORMOUS BEARS...
THE GREATEST CONCENTRATION OF BROWN BEARS IN THE WORLD.
THE STREAMS ARE THEIR HUNTING GROUNDS,
AND THOUGH OCEAN GIANTS PLY THE WATERS OFFSHORE,
THE RUNS OF SALMON BELONG TO THE BEARS.
THEIR ONLY FEAR IS A BIGGER BEAR.
BUT THIS SEASON, SOMETHING HAS GONE WRONG.
THE FEAST OF SALMON DOES NOT COME.
SOME WAIT IN VAIN FOR FISH...
OTHERS CHANGE THEIR TACTICS.
BUT THEIR ISLAND WILDERNESS IS FAILING THEM,
AND FOR ONE FATEFUL SUMMER,
THE BEARS ARE PUT TO THE ULTIMATE TEST.
Narrator: MASSIVE BROWN BEARS
PATROL THE SHORES OF SOUTHEAST ALASKA,
WHERE REMNANTS OF THE ICE AGE STILL LINGER.
YET THE GLACIERS
THAT ONCE FORMED GIANT HIGHWAYS THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
ARE IN THEIR FINAL RETREAT,
AND THE ICE HAS TURNED TO OCEAN ALONG ALASKA'S COASTAL RANGE.
THE MOUNTAINS ARE ISLANDS NOW,
AND THE BEARS ARE CASTAWAYS,
MAROONED OUT ON ISOLATED WORLDS.
CONFINED BY RISING WATERS, THEY STALK THE ROCKY BEACHES,
VIGILANT FOR WHATEVER FORTUNE -- AND FATE --
MAY BRING IN FROM THE SEA.
A MOOSE FROM THE MAINLAND SEEKING NEW GROUND
WILL FIND MIGHTY PREDATORS,
AND NO SANCTUARY HERE.
THE BEAR IS ABOUT TO RUN OUT OF HUNTING GROUND,
BUT THE MOOSE IS TOO BIG A PRIZE FOR HIM TO LET HER SWIM AWAY.
THE SPINDLY-LEGGED MOOSE
IS A SURPRISINGLY STRONG SWIMMER.
THE BEAR, THOUGH POWERFUL IN THE WATER,
HAS NO HOPE OF CATCHING HER.
A HUNDRED YARDS OUT, HE'S REACHED HIS LIMIT
AND HEADS FOR HOME...
TO WATCH AND WAIT FOR THE NEXT OPPORTUNITY.
THIS ONCE FROZEN WORLD
NOW FORMS THE PANHANDLE OF SOUTHEAST ALASKA,
WHERE SHEER ROCK WALLS
RISE LIKE A FORTRESS FROM THE SURROUNDING SEA.
BUT IT'S WATER THAT HOLDS THIS WORLD TOGETHER
AND MAKES THIS FORTRESS SO POWERFUL.
UP TO 200 INCHES OF RAIN A YEAR
CASCADE DOWN SLOPE AFTER SLOPE,
BUILDING INTO THOUSANDS OF FAST-FLOWING STREAMS.
FOR PREDATORS CONFINED ON
THESE ISLAND MOUNTAINS,
IT'S THE WATERS RUSHING OVER HARD GRANITE
THAT HAVE BECOME PRIME HUNTING GROUNDS.
A YOUNG BROWN BEAR STEPS OUT ONTO THE ROCKS.
HE CHECKS TO SEE IF THE COAST IS CLEAR,
THEN GOES AFTER
WHAT HE CAME FOR --
FISH, FRESH IN FROM THE SEA.
THE MOMENT A BIGGER BEAR EMERGES FROM THE FOREST,
HE IS QUICK TO DROP HIS FISH.
HE WON'T RISK AN ENCOUNTER.
THE BIG BEAR SNAPS HIS JAWS IN AGGRESSION.
ABOVE THE ROAR OF THE FALLS, TENSION IS TIGHT IN THE AIR.
WHAT EVERY BEAR FEARS MOST HERE, IS ANOTHER BEAR.
AND IT'S SMART TO BE VIGILANT.
ONCE HE'S MADE A CATCH,
HE KNOWS BETTER THAN TO EAT IT OUT IN THE OPEN.
HE HEADS FOR COVER,
TO DISAPPEAR AS FAST AS HE CAN
INTO THE DEEP GREEN OF THE TREES.
HE HAS ENTERED NO ORDINARY FOREST.
ITS INTERIOR IS A VAST CATHEDRAL OF ANCIENT TREES.
HERE, THERE ARE TREES THAT HAVE STOOD FOR A THOUSAND YEARS,
HARBORING ONE OF THE RICHEST NATURAL COMMUNITIES ANYWHERE.
THIS IS THE TONGASS NATIONAL FOREST...
17 MILLION ACRES
OF THE GREATEST TEMPERATE RAINFOREST ON EARTH,
WHERE WESTERN HEMLOCK AND SITKA SPRUCE
TOWER 200 FEET TALL.
LIVING TREES
ARE THE SCAFFOLDING FOR ONE WORLD...
DEAD TREES FOR ANOTHER.
FALLEN TIMBERS SLOW THE RUSHING WATERS,
CREATING QUIET POOLS
WHERE LITTLE FISH CAN GROW.
IT'S IN THESE BRIGHT, CLEAR STREAMS
THAT OCEAN GOING SALMON GET THEIR START.
SHELTERED BY OLD TREES,
THEY WILL PREPARE FOR A LIFE AT SEA.
THOUGH THEY MAY SPEND YEARS FAR FROM THE FOREST,
THEY WILL STILL BECOME
A PRINCIPAL SOURCE OF ITS BOUNTY.
WHEN THE TIME COMES TO START THE NEXT GENERATION,
THE SALMON RETURN BY THE THOUSANDS
TO SPAWN, LAY THEIR EGGS,
AND DIE IN THE GRAVEL BEDS OF THEIR BIRTH.
HERE THEY WILL FACE THE BEARS.
WITH SO MANY STREAMS
AND SO MANY SALMON,
THESE ISLANDS HOST THE LARGEST CONCENTRATION
OF BROWN BEARS KNOWN IN THE WORLD.
AN ESTIMATED 1,800 LIVE ON ADMIRALTY ISLAND
AT THE HEART OF THE ARCHIPELAGO.
NEARLY 100 MILES LONG,
AND FROM 2 TO 22 MILES WIDE,
THE ISLAND IS HALF THE SIZE OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK,
YET IT SUPPORTS FOUR TIMES THE GRIZZLIES.
RUSSIAN EXPLORERS APPROACHING THE ISLAND BY BOAT
SAW ENORMOUS BEARS PROWLING THE WATER'S EDGE.
THEY CALLED THE PLACE "OSTROV KUTSNOI" --
"FEAR ISLAND."
BUT THE NATIVE TLINGIT PEOPLE NAMED THE ISLAND KOOTZNOOWOO --
FORTRESS OF THE BEARS.
A FORTRESS WHERE BEARS DEPEND ON FISH,
FISH DEPEND ON TREES,
AND THE TREES DEPEND ON FISH-EATING BEARS
TO SPREAD THE NITROGEN-RICH BODIES OF SALMON
THROUGHOUT THE FOREST.
AT LEAST, THAT'S HOW THIS REMARKABLE FOREST
IS SUPPOSED TO WORK --
AND THAT'S THE STORY WE CAME HERE TO TELL.
BUT SOMETIMES THE PIECES FALL OUT OF PLACE,
AND THIS SUMMER WILL PUT THE FORTRESS
TO A TERRIBLE TEST.
A YOUNG FEMALE HAS COME DOWN TO
THE WATER MEADOWS OF WINDFALL HARBOR.
SHE CAN HAVE NO IDEA OF THE ORDEAL THAT WILL UNFOLD
FOR HER IN THE COMING MONTHS.
ALL SHE KNOWS NOW
IS THAT THE GRAZING IS GOOD ON THE SEDGE AND GRASS FLATS
WHERE STREAMS SPILL OUT INTO THE SALTY COVE.
SURPRISINGLY, SHE HAS BROUGHT
HER TINY CUBS...
ALL THREE OF THEM.
MAYBE SHE IS A FIRST-TIME MOTHER
AND DOESN'T KNOW THAT BRINGING FIRST YEAR CUBS
OUT INTO THE OPEN IS RISKING THEIR LIVES.
SHE'S THE ONLY MOTHER WITH CUBS WE SAW IN THE MEADOW ALL SPRING.
THEY ARE NOT LONG OUT OF THE DEN.
SHE'S STILL WEARING HER HEAVY WINTER COAT.
THOUGH EAGER FOR NOURISHMENT HERSELF,
SHE STOPS TO FEED THE CUBS.
BUT THIS IS NO PLACE TO LINGER.
TROUBLE HAS JUST EMERGED FROM THE FOREST.
HE'S A BIG MALE,
AND SO USED TO SIGNPOSTING HIS PRESENCE
THAT HE HAS RUBBED OFF MUCH OF THE FUR ON HIS BACK.
AS SOON AS THE MOTHER GETS WIND OF HIM,
SHE REALIZES THE DANGER.
ON AN ISLAND OF SO MANY BEARS, AGGRESSION IS PART OF SURVIVAL.
A MALE IS MORE THAN LIKELY TO KILL THE CUBS,
AND SHE HUSTLES THEM OUT OF THE MEADOW
AS FAST AS SHE CAN.
HE USES THE TREE TO MAKE A STATEMENT --
TO COMMUNICATE WITH OTHER BEARS WITHOUT HAVING TO MAKE CONTACT.
HE RUBS HIS SCENT AS HIGH UP THE TREE AS HE CAN REACH.
HE'LL LEAVE PATCHES OF FUR AND CLAW MARKS --
ALL INDICATIONS OF HIS SIZE AND ROBUST HEALTH.
BUT ALMOST IMMEDIATELY,
A RIVAL COMES UP FROM THE BEACH TO CONFRONT HIM.
THEY APPROACH EACH OTHER WITH LOWERED HEADS
AND A MARKED SWAGGER --
A STRIDE MEANT TO INTIMIDATE.
BUT SWAGGER ALONE IS NOT GOING TO BE ENOUGH.
THE CHALLENGER IS FORCED TO BACK DOWN.
THE BEAR THAT WAS MARKING THE TREES
TURNS OUT TO BE AS GOOD AS HIS ADVERTISING.
HE PROVES IT BY TURNING AWAY --
A SURE SIGN OF HIS CONFIDENCE.
THIS WILL BE JUST THE FIRST OF MANY BATTLES
AMONG THE MALES ON ADMIRALTY ISLAND.
MATING SEASON IS BEGINNING,
AND THESE CONFLICTS WILL ONLY ESCALATE...
UNLESS A MALE GETS LUCKY.
THIS ONE HAS CLAIMED A FEMALE ALL TO HIMSELF,
WITHOUT HAVING TO FIGHT FOR HER.
HE LOOKS LIKE HIS BEST YEARS ARE BEHIND HIM,
BUT FOR SOME REASON, SHE IS WILLING TO ACCEPT HIM.
THE BEARS MAY HAVE KNOWN EACH OTHER FOR YEARS.
PERHAPS HE WAS SOMETHING SPECIAL IN HIS DAY,
OR HAS EARNED HER RESPECT AS A SURVIVOR.
BUT THEY WASTE NO TIME ON ROMANCE.
WHEN THEIR MATING IS DONE, SHE LETS HIM KNOW IT'S OVER.
THE TLINGIT PEOPLE SAY,
"WHEN THE TIDE IS OUT, THE TABLE IS SET."
AND AT LOW TIDE, MILES OF FRESH FORAGING GROUNDS
ARE EXPOSED ALL AROUND THE ISLAND.
A FLEET OF GOLDENEYES
AND SHOVELERS CRUISES INTO THE SHALLOWS
TO FEED ON AQUATIC INSECTS AND INVERTEBRATES
STIRRED UP BY THE RETREATING WATER.
A MINK CAN SWIM FROM BEACH TO BEACH
TO SCOUR THE KELP LINE
FOR SMALL FISH AND SHELLFISH.
THE KELP IS A TANGLE OF FISHING GEAR
FOR SNARING JUST SUCH A TINY CATCH.
IN WASHED-UP POPWEED,
VARIED THRUSHES ARE POKING ABOUT FOR INSECTS.
LOW TIDE BRINGS THEM OUT OF THE DENSE, WET FOREST
WHERE THEY ARE MOST AT HOME.
A BEAR HAS FOLLOWED THE TIDE
OUT TO WHERE SHE CAN FIND A REAL DELICACY...
CLAMS.
LEFT HIGH AND DRY BY THE RECEDING TIDE,
THE CLAMS GIVE THEMSELVES AWAY,
SQUIRTING WATER FROM THEIR SIPHONS TO BREATHE
AND TO FLUSH OUT THE SAND.
CLAMMING TAKES SKILL,
AND THE BEAR HAS A WELL-PRACTICED TECHNIQUE.
SHE CRACKS THE SHELL WITH HER JAWS,
THEN, USING HER FOUR-INCH CLAWS WITH GREAT DEXTERITY,
SHE DELICATELY PICKS OUT THE CLAM MEAT.
THE FEAST ONLY LASTS A FEW HOURS.
NO SOONER IS THE TIDE OUT THAN IT TURNS,
AND BEGINS TO SLIP BACK IN TO SHORE.
ON THE EAST COAST OF ADMIRALTY ISLAND,
IT RUSHES IN LIKE A FLOOD.
SPRING TIDES CAN SWING BY AS MUCH AS 15 FEET.
IN THE WATER MEADOWS OF WINDFALL HARBOR,
THE YOUNG MOTHER HAS RETURNED TO GRAZE.
ALREADY, SHE HAS LOST ONE OF HER CUBS.
WE WILL NEVER KNOW WHAT HAPPENED,
BUT IT'S POSSIBLE THAT AN AGGRESSIVE MALE
ATTACKED AND KILLED IT.
THERE ARE ONLY TWO LITTLE ONES NOW.
SHE NEEDS TO MOVE THE FAMILY OUT OF THE MEADOW.
THE ONCOMING TIDE COULD PROVE
TOO MUCH FOR THE TINY SURVIVORS.
BUT THEIR MOTHER IS FAMISHED
AND INTENT ON GRAZING.
SHE NEEDS TO RESTORE THE WEIGHT SHE LOST DURING HIBERNATION,
AND DOESN'T NOTICE THE APPROACH OF TWO OTHER BEARS.
LUCKILY, THEY ARE JUST TWO ADOLESCENTS,
TEENAGERS,
SCARED THEMSELVES OF RUNNING INTO OTHER BEARS.
AT LAST, THE FAMILY AND THE TEENAGERS
CATCH SIGHT OF EACH OTHER,
AND EVERYBODY IS ALARMED BY THE CLOSE ENCOUNTER.
IT'S TIME TO GET THE CUBS TO SHELTER.
THEY'RE ALREADY WET AND COLD,
AND THE WEATHER IS ABOUT TO TAKE A TURN FOR THE WORSE.
IT CAN RAIN FOR DAYS ON END IN SOUTHEAST ALASKA...
AND THIS SPRING IS UNUSUALLY COLD AND SOGGY.
BUT THE RAINS LEAVE THE AIR FRESH AND CLEAN.
INSECTS EMERGE AFTER THE DOWNPOUR
IN HATCH AFTER HATCH, ALL THROUGH SPRING AND SUMMER.
FLOWER FLIES HAVE DESCENDED TO FEED ON THE RYE GRASS,
COLLECTING THE POLLEN THEY NEED FOR THEIR EGGS TO DEVELOP.
GRASSES PRIMARILY RELY ON THE WIND,
BUT THE FLIES SERVE AS BACK-UP POLLINATORS.
A LONG-JAWED ORB SPIDER HIDES IN PLAIN SIGHT,
READY TO FEED NOT ON THE GRASS, BUT ON THE FLIES.
BEARD LICHEN FESTOONS THE FOREST,
ABSORBING MOISTURE AND MINERALS
STRAIGHT OUT OF THE AIR.
SENSITIVE TO AIR POLLUTION,
THE LICHEN IS AN INDICATOR OF PRISTINE ATMOSPHERE,
AND IT HANGS IN PROFUSION ON THE COAST OF ADMIRALTY.
THE DREARY WEATHER
HASN'T DAMPENED THE SPIRITS OF A BEAR EAGER FOR SALMON.
BEARS HAVE A SIXTH SENSE FOR WHEN AND WHERE
THERE IS SOMETHING TO EAT,
BUT SHE SEEMS TO HAVE JUMPED THE GUN.
THE SALMON HAVEN'T STARTED TO RUN YET.
STILL, SHE'S A VETERAN OF THESE SALMON STREAMS --
HER TIMING CAN'T BE THAT FAR OFF.
SHE WORKS THE CREEK FOR MORE THAN AN HOUR,
BUT THE FEW FISH IN THE STREAM HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM TO ESCAPE.
FINALLY, SHE ACCEPTS DEFEAT.
NO LONGER YOUNG, SHE BEARS THE SCARS
OF A LONG LIFE ON A DANGEROUS ISLAND.
HER NOSE HAS BEEN CUT STRAIGHT THROUGH,
AND HER COAT IS WELL WORN.
TURNING BACK TO THE GRASS, SHE SETTLES IN TO WAIT.
AS JULY REACHES SOUTHEAST ALASKA,
THE ALPINE MEADOWS BEGIN TO FLOWER.
THE LAST POCKETS OF SNOW
ARE FINALLY MELTING FROM THE PEAKS OF ADMIRALTY ISLAND.
DIMINUTIVE SITKA BLACK-TAILED DEER
VENTURE OUT OF THE FOREST FOR FRESH GRAZING...
OR MAYBE TO SPEND A MOMENT ADMIRING THE SPECTACULAR VIEW.
OUT IN FREDERICK SOUND,
TWO SURE SIGNS OF SUMMER ARE MOVING UP THE CHANNEL --
GIANT CRUISE SHIPS
PLYING THE WATERS OF THE INSIDE PASSAGE...
AND HUMPBACK WHALES ALL THE WAY FROM HAWAII.
AFTER FASTING ALL WINTER,
THE WHALES HAVE COME ALMOST 3,000 MILES
TO FEAST ON SUMMER SHOALS OF HERRING.
BALD EAGLES SOAR OUT TO MEET THEM
TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE EASY FISHING
THE WHALES STIR UP.
THE EAGLES INDULGE IN AERIAL ACROBATICS,
PASSING THE CATCH IN MID-AIR.
WORKING UP CHATHAM STRAIT IN TIGHT-KNIT GROUPS,
THE HUMPBACKS TRAVEL AND FEED
LONG INTO THE MIDSUMMER NIGHT.
WHILE THE HERRING AND THE HUMPBACKS
HAVE ARRIVED ON SCHEDULE,
THERE IS, STRANGELY, STILL NO SIGN OF SALMON.
IT'S LATE IN JULY,
AND CHUM SALMON SHOULD ALREADY HAVE STARTED THEIR RUN.
BUT THERE'S JUST A SCATTERING OF FISH.
OLD CUTNOSE COMES DOWN TO THE CREEK EVERY DAY.
ALL HER LIFE, SALMON HAVE SURGED UP THIS STREAM.
SURELY, THERE MUST BE FISH TO EAT,
IF SHE JUST WORKS HARD ENOUGH.
ANOTHER BEAR HAS COME LOOKING FOR FISH.
HE'S YOUNG, BUT EVEN MORE RAGGED LOOKING THAN CUTNOSE.
FROM THE LOOK OF HIS COAT,
HE'S NOT GETTING ALL THE NUTRITION HE NEEDS.
HE WATCHES AS CUTNOSE WORKS THE EMPTY WATERS,
AND THOUGH SHE FINDS NO FISH,
SHE WON'T TOLERATE THE YOUNG BEAR IN HER STREAM.
RELUCTANTLY, THEY BOTH TURN BACK TO THE GRASS.
THE BEARS AREN'T THE ONLY ONES FISHING.
IN A SMALL BACKWATER JUST OFF THE CREEK,
A LESSER YELLOWLEGS IS POKING ABOUT FOR A MEAL.
HE'S NOT HAVING ANY TROUBLE FINDING THE TINY FISH HE NEEDS.
BUT HIS SKILL
DOESN'T COMPARE TO THE UNNERVING ACCURACY
OF A GREAT BLUE HERON.
THE HERON MAKES IT LOOK SO EASY.
A COUPLE OF RAVENS STUDY THE HERON'S METHOD,
BUT CAN'T QUITE SEEM TO WORK IT OUT.
YET, THE CLEVER RAVEN ALWAYS COMES AWAY WITH SOMETHING.
THE BEARS, HOWEVER, ARE IN TROUBLE.
THE WHOLE SUMMER HAS BEEN ABNORMALLY WET AND COOL.
WATER TEMPERATURES TWO DEGREES BELOW NORMAL
ARE KEEPING SALMON FROM ENTERING THE SWOLLEN STREAMS.
A WEATHER ANOMALY CALLED "LA NINA"
THAT BEGAN LAST WINTER FAR OUT IN THE PACIFIC
HAS PUSHED COLD WATER INTO SOUTHEAST ALASKA.
THE RUN OF CHUM SALMON NEVER CAME.
NOW, PINKS SHOULD BE CROWDING THE STREAMS,
AND THERE ARE NEXT TO NONE.
EAGLES...
GULLS -- THE WHOLE COASTAL COMMUNITY
IS FEELING THE TERRIBLE PANGS OF HUNGER.
JUST TWO DEGREES OF CHANGE,
TWO DEGREES OF DESPERATION.
IT'S TIMES LIKE THESE THAT CALL FOR INGENUITY.
LATE IN THE DAY, A SMALL BEAR HAS COME OUT
TO FORAGE ON THE TIDAL FLATS.
HE'S NOT MUCH MORE THAN A CUB, AND HE'S OPEN TO NEW IDEAS.
THE SALMON MAY NOT HAVE TURNED UP,
BUT BEACH-COMBING IS ALWAYS
FULL OF POSSIBILITIES.
HIS NOSE IS TELLING HIM
THERE'S SOMETHING INTERESTING HIDING IN THE KELP...
NOT CLAMS OR MUSSELS,
BUT SOMETHING MUCH MORE REWARDING...
DUNGENESS CRABS.
STARTLED, THE CRAB PUTS UP A FIGHT,
BUT IT'S NOT GOING TO BE MUCH OF A CONTEST.
THE BEAR HAS JUST THE RIGHT TOOLS
TO DISMANTLE THE CRAB'S ARMOR.
IS THIS YOUNG BEAR IMPROVISING?
DISCOVERING A NEW FOOD SOURCE ALL ON HIS OWN?
DID A CLEVER MOTHER TEACH HIM WHAT TO DIG FOR
AND HOW TO HANDLE IT?
FROM ALL ACCOUNTS, THIS IS NEW BEHAVIOR --
YET THE YOUNG BEAR SEEMS TO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT HE'S DOING.
HE DOESN'T SEEM TO HAVE A TASTE FOR THIS ONE,
BUT THERE'S A FEAST OF CRABS OUT HERE ON THE EBBING TIDE,
AND LATE INTO THE EVENING LIGHT, HE'S THE ONLY BEAR ENJOYING IT.
BACK ALONG THE BANKS OF PACK CREEK,
THE VIGIL FOR SALMON WEARS ON.
ANOTHER BEAR JOINS THE HOPEFULS, BRINGING HER SECOND YEAR CUB.
THEY'VE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE OPEN FISHING GROUNDS,
FORAGING IN THE FOREST FOR OTHER THINGS TO EAT.
BUT BERRIES AND SKUNK CABBAGE ROOTS
CANNOT TRUMP THE PROTEIN AND FAT IN A NICE, BIG FISH.
AS HER CUB SCRAMBLES TO KEEP UP,
THE FIT MOTHER SWEEPS RIGHT PAST OLD CUTNOSE,
WHO TURNS HER GAZE AWAY IN DEFERENCE TO A STRONGER BEAR.
THE NEWCOMER BRINGS FRESH ENERGY TO THE CHASE...
INSPIRING CUTNOSE TO DOUBLE HER EFFORTS.
WITH CUTNOSE DISRUPTING THE WATERS UPSTREAM,
THE NEWCOMER MAKES A TACTICAL CHOICE.
SUDDENLY, AND WITH JUST A FEW MINUTES OF EFFORT,
SHE LANDS A BIG CHUM SALMON.
THE EAGLES ERUPT IN EXCITEMENT.
THE BEAR AND HER CUB MAKE NO ATTEMPT TO HIDE THE FISH.
THEY DEVOUR IT ON THE SPOT, IN A FEW MINUTES FLAT.
AN EAGLE SNATCHES A DROPPED MORSEL,
BUT CUTNOSE, WITH HER GRASS-FILLED STOMACH,
CAN ONLY WATCH.
IT MUST BE VERY HARD TO TAKE.
THE CATCH WAS AN ISOLATED FISH.
IT'S WELL INTO AUGUST,
AND NEITHER THE CHUMS NOR THE PINKS
HAVE STARTED TO RUN.
DEEP IN THE FOREST,
ANOTHER FAMILY IS FEELING THE PINCH.
THE MOTHER IS GAUNT AND ON EDGE.
THE CUBS HAVE NO ENERGY OR INCLINATION TO PLAY.
SHE BARELY GETS TO TEST THE WATERS
BEFORE THE CAUSE OF HER CONCERN
STEPS OUT OF THE SHADOWS TO CLAIM HIS FISHING SPOT.
HE'S HUGE AND VERY WELL FED.
HE SETTLES ONTO THE FALLEN TREE LIKE A JAGUAR,
SCANNING THE RUSHING STREAM
FOR THE OCCASIONAL FISH.
HIS BELLY FLOP METHOD PROVES SURPRISINGLY SUCCESSFUL.
AND NO SOONER DOES HE FINISH ONE FISH
THAN HE'S BACK FOR ANOTHER -- AND ANOTHER.
EVEN IN HARD TIMES HE'S MANAGING TO DO WELL,
DOMINATING THIS SPOT WITH ITS HANDY PLATFORM
AND HIS UNORTHODOX TECHNIQUE.
BUT WHILE THE STREAM HAS ENOUGH SALMON TO KEEP HIM FAT...
THERE'S NOT ENOUGH FOR EVERYONE.
BACK DOWN AT PACK CREEK, CUTNOSE WAITS...
AND WAITS.
BUT THIS IS LIKE NO SUMMER SHE HAS EVER SEEN.
ALL OVER ADMIRALTY ISLAND,
BEARS THAT HAVE RELIED ON SALMON EVERY SUMMER
SEARCH IN VAIN.
THERE ARE OTHER THINGS TO EAT,
AND BROWN BEARS ARE FLEXIBLE AS A SPECIES.
BUT EACH ONE IS AN INDIVIDUAL,
AND MANY CANNOT SEEM TO
CHANGE THEIR WAYS.
THE SALMON SEASON HAS BEEN A DISASTER.
ALL THROUGH ALASKA'S NORTHERN INSIDE PASSAGE,
THE RUNS ARE DECLARED A FAILURE.
IT'S THE WORST SALMON RETURNS IN ALMOST 40 YEARS.
FACING RECORD HIGH FUEL PRICES, MUCH OF THE SALMON FLEET
STAYS IN PORT --
THERE'S SIMPLY NOT ENOUGH FISH TO COVER THEIR COSTS.
THE YOUNG MOTHER WHO BEGAN SUCH A PROMISING YEAR
WITH THREE LITTLE CUBS
NOW HAS ONLY ONE.
SHE SHOULD HAVE BEEN GAINING WEIGHT ALL SUMMER,
PREPARING FOR HIBERNATION.
INSTEAD, SHE LOOKS TO HAVE LOST MORE THAN 100 POUNDS.
ON THIS ISLAND OF FAMOUS ABUNDANCE,
A LITTLE CHANGE IN THE WEATHER HAS TURNED FEAST
INTO FAMINE.
IT'S SEPTEMBER,
AND UP IN THE FOREST,
EVEN THE TREES SEEM TO BE HOLDING THEIR BREATH.
THE GIANTS THAT HAVE STOOD FOR CENTURIES
WILL TAKE THIS STRANGE SUMMER
AS JUST ANOTHER IN THE TWISTS AND TURNS
OF A LONG LIFE.
BUT EVEN THEY WILL MISS THE NITROGEN AND PHOSPHORUS
THAT SALMON BRING IN FROM THE SEA.
AND THE STREAMS THAT FLOW ALL ACROSS THIS ISLAND
WILL NOT OFFER THE NUTRIENTS THAT FUEL THE FOOD CHAIN
FROM HATCHES OF INSECTS TO THE TALLEST OF TREES.
AND WHAT OF THE SALMON THEMSELVES?
THEY'VE BEEN PREPARING FOR YEARS FOR THIS MOMENT --
TO LEAVE SALTWATER
AND MAKE THEIR RUN UP A FRESHWATER STREAM.
CAN THEY WAIT ANOTHER YEAR?
WILL THEY DIE WITHOUT COMPLETING THE CYCLE?
THEN, OUT IN THE CHANNEL,
TWO MONTHS LATE AND GIVEN UP FOR THE YEAR...
SALMON!
IT'S TAKEN ALL SPRING AND SUMMER,
BUT THE ANOMALY OF LA NINA
HAS FINALLY WASHED THROUGH THE WEATHER.
HEROICALLY, THE SALMON TRY TO MAKE UP FOR LOST TIME.
PINKS AND CHUMS THAT HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR
CONDITIONS THEY CAN TOLERATE
NOW MAKE THEIR MOVE.
AS WATER TEMPERATURES ROUND BACK TO NORMAL,
THEY BEGIN TO TRANSFORM THEIR SILVER BODIES
FOR THE RUSH OF FRESH WATER.
THERE'S NO TURNING BACK NOW.
ALL OVER ADMIRALTY, RAVENOUS BEARS
SPRING INTO ACTION.
THE STARVING YOUNG MOTHER AND HER CUB
MAY NOW HAVE A CHANCE TO MAKE IT.
AFTER SATISFYING AN APPETITE
THAT HAS BEEN BUILDING UP FOR MONTHS,
BEARS HAVE THE LUXURY OF BEING CHOOSY.
THEY CAN PEEL OFF JUST THE DELECTABLE, FAT-RICH SKIN,
OR DISCARD A MALE FOR A FEMALE FULL OF EGGS.
THE EGGS, GLOWING RUBY RED,
ALWAYS ATTRACT A GRATEFUL CROWD.
THE SALMON THAT MAKE IT PAST THE GAUNTLET
FINALLY GET TO FULFILL THEIR MISSION.
THE CHUMS ARE IN FULL BREEDING COLORS NOW.
THE MALE HAS STRONG VERTICAL STRIPES OF GREEN AND MAROON
THAT REFLECT HIS STRENGTH AND SOCIAL STATUS.
HIS JAW HAS ELONGATED
AND NOW BRANDISHES LARGE SPAWNING TEETH.
THE SMALLER FEMALE WEARS A LONG HORIZONTAL STRIPE,
A SIGN OF HER SEX
THAT TEMPERS THE AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR OF THE MALE.
USING HER TAIL,
SHE DIGS OUT A HOLLOW IN THE GRAVEL,
PREPARING A BED FOR HER EGGS.
AS THE COUPLE SPAWNS,
A LESS DOMINANT MALE MOVES ALONGSIDE,
DISGUISED WITH THE HORIZONTAL STRIPE OF A FEMALE.
IF HE TIMES IT JUST RIGHT,
HE'LL BE ABLE TO FERTILIZE SOME OF THE EGGS.
THE FEMALE WILL GUARD HER EGGS FOR A WEEK OR TWO.
BUT WITHIN A FEW WEEKS OF SPAWNING,
ALL THE SALMON WILL DIE --
THEIR ENERGIES AND THEIR BODIES SPENT.
THEN, THEY WILL ENRICH THESE WATERS WITH NUTRIENTS
AND FEED THE FOREST AND ALL WHO DWELL HERE
WITH THE FRUITS OF THEIR OWN REMAINS.
EAGER FOR LEFTOVERS, THE EAGLES ARE CELEBRATING, TOO.
AND A RAVEN NEVER MISSES OUT ON A MEAL.
NOW, A FLEDGLING GETS TO CLAIM A SHARE.
ADMIRALTY ISLAND HAS COME THROUGH A TERRIBLE SUMMER.
ITS BIG TREES, ITS BEARS, AND ITS SALMON
HAVE KEPT THEIR SACRED TRUST.
BUT IT NO LONGER FEELS LIKE A FORTRESS.
INSTEAD OF RISING FROM THE SEA IN ISOLATION,
IT STANDS DEEPLY CONNECTED TO THE WATERS AROUND IT...
PROFOUNDLY AFFECTED BY
EVENTS AN OCEAN AWAY.
THE YOUNG MOTHER STALKS THE STREAM BANK,
CHECKING FOR THE SCENT OF OTHER BEARS.
A SIGN OF CAUTION AT LAST.
SHE HAS FINALLY BEGUN TO PUT ON WEIGHT.
IT'S THE CUBS THAT SUFFER THE MOST IN HARD TIMES...
BUT SHE HAS KEPT HER LAST LITTLE CUB ALIVE.
MAY NEXT YEAR BRING A FAIR SUMMER TO ADMIRALTY ISLAND,
AND SALMON ENOUGH FOR THEM ALL.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WHAT YOU'VE SEEN ON THIS "NATURE" PROGRAM,
VISIT pbs.org.